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Tips listed on this page:
Modeling the eyes - Sculpting nails or fingers - Choosing the fabrics  - Links
 
 
 
Eyes are, as they are for human beings, the most important
part of the doll. The look reveals the soul, or it doesn't. Eyes can also be so remarkably evocative that we can associate them to a certain style . Take a look, for instance, at the eyes of Mr. Bill Nelson's dolls which always emanate such tenderness.
 
Personally, I don't use manufactured eyes for my dolls, I prefer to paint them myself. It is a real challenge for me to be able to reveal, by a few tiny details, the emotion of the doll.

Several doll artists such as Nancy Wiley, Helen Kish,  E.J. Taylor, Van Craig, Antonette Cely have chosen to paint their dolls' eyes. Whatever technique they use, their eyes invite you to look deeper.
 
 
 
 
 
When your doll is completed, watch its eyes and ask yourself: Are they talking to me?

1. You know how difficult it is sometimes to sculpt the eyes and the eyebrow and get the right shape of the eyeball. 

2. To make it easier, you can model small balls with the product you use (paperclay, papier maché or polymer clays). Bake them separately in the oven (beware not to use your regular oven to avoid toxic fumes, especially for polymers*). Let dry. 

3. Place the balls into the head of your doll and start modeling the eyebrow around them and then sculpt  the rest of the face. You are ready now to bake the head and start painting the eyes.  
* If you are concerned with the possible toxicity of the new clays and want to know how to bake them, you will get accurate information on this subject in New Clays for Dollmaking, by Mimi and Jim Winer (Mimi's Books and Patterns)  and in Fantastic Figures, by NIADA member, the doll artist Susanna Oroyan (C & T Publishing).

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Hands and fingers are not only very difficult to sculpt. They're also fragile and breakable pieces. How many times did you break a nail or a finger while sculpting the hand? How many times did you send a doll to collectors and  heard from them that a hand of 
your doll had cracks on it or had got broken in transport? 

How to avoid this situation?

 
Hands are expressive parts 
of the doll's body as well as breakable pieces.
Be patient and meticulous  while sculpting them.
  
1. Depending on the doll's measurements,  I use very thin wire to form the hand's skeleton and I wrap each finger with a layer of masking tape. Then I add paperclay to the fingers. If a finger breaks, the skeleton will stick in place, I only have to replace the broken part. I don't recommend this technique for those who keep polymer's natural tones, but for the others, I hope it helps!  
 
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You may think you have sculpted your best doll ever, if you don't use the right fabric for it, the final figure may look out of proportion. Then what is the right fabric for a doll?

I like to use old vintage fabrics 
or the best quality natural fibers for my dolls. I enjoy collecting antique and fine silk handkerchieves or delicate brocart. On the other hand, I confess that, as many people do, I bought many fabrics without asking myself if I really needed them. And, frankly, I don't know if I will ever use them to dress my dolls. That's why I have decided  now to choose the best ones
(those I won't ever find again!) and leave the rest behind.
 
Where can we find great fabrics?
In most cases, you are surrounded by Ali Baba's caverns and you don't know it. Your grandmother's armoire, garage sales and flea markets, local antique shops, the nearest arabic or persian fabric store, all these places can reveal wonderful or unusual stuff. And you don't have to pay much. The most beautiful things I found and collected over the years (even before starting to make dolls) were the cheapest!
 
 
 
 
1. The right fabric for a doll is the fabric that fits it. First, it must be on scale and belong to the right fashion style or history period. For example, if your doll depicts a young teenage girl of the 90's, you won't use dark velvet to dress her. A better choice would be to use cotton and colorful  fabrics, as all youngsters wear these days. 

2. Being in scale means also light material. To drape a dress properly and make the outfit look natural, the fabric can't be too thick or heavy. Otherwise, it can spoil the balance of the dolls.  

3. Colors and textures of the fabrics, or accessories  
such as buttons also contribute to the whole composition. Costuming is by far my favorite part of doll making but also one of the hardest for me. I admire those who combine several colored fabrics and/or material and let the doll's soul emerge through it. Personally, to make the best choices, I cut small pieces of each fabric and place them together to see if they fit together. I usually don't draw lots of sketches  before dressing a doll but I get interesting results with draping. I drape the doll, try things and try again for several days or weeks before making a final decision on what it is good for the doll.  

Being too impatient has often led me to ruin a doll's costume, forcing me to start all over again.  
  

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GREAT  WEB SITES FOR DOLLMAKING TIPS

Antonette Cely (NIADA)
Marty Donnellan
Nellie Everink
How to make an Elizabethan Corset

GREAT TEXTILES & ACCESSORIES WEB SITES 

Milieux - The Costume Site 
Online Costuming Sources for Historical, Science Fiction & Fantasy Costumers. 

Textiles Through Time 
A wonderful list of textiles related web sites.

Our Button Box
A lot of information on collectible buttons.

The Internet Antique Shop Museum
 
 
Other tips and links will be listed from time to time.
If you have any questions on my work,
don't hesitate to e-mail me!

Web site Design by M.C. Dupont - Photos by Martin Delisle (Montréal, P.Q., Canada)
 ALL CONTENTS - COPYRIGHT © MARIE-CLAUDE DUPONT, 1996-1997. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.